I Love Homemade Macaroni and Cheese: So Roux Me!

I recently got introduced to Nigel Slater through an article in Bon Appetite. If I was British I clearly would know who he was, as the bio on his book jacket refers to him as one of Britian’s “national treasures”. I don’t know if any American chef has reached that distinction yet. Paula Dean? Emeril? Big head Giada DeLaurentiis?! I doubt it.

Giada -- someone I would refer to as a lollipop head. Also, she annoyingly has to pronouce words like "spaghetti" like an off the boat Italian grandmother ergo I hate her.

Well, Nigel sounded like a first rate guy and he sort of looks like Harry Potter, so in the end, I enthusiastically scooped up his memoir, so eloquently named “Toast”.

Harry Potter's Dad?!! What, what!

“Toast” is a memoir, lead by food. Or more appropriately for Nigel’s life; chocolates, suckers, ice cream, pies, and some hideous canned goods. Slater grew up in the 1960s, probably my least favorite food decade, and his family, albeit one on the wealthier side of things, really indulged in the canned food craze. They were also obsessed with candies and sweets. Every other section dealt with a pie, a treacle tart, or candy from the candy shop. Also, the candies sounded like they were out of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Mr. Whippy Cornets, Callard and Bower’s Butterscotch, Parma Violets, and of course Gobstoppers.

Look at that punim

Slater is able to interweave his memories of food as a child, into his memories of things that happened to him during his early life. There are hilarious parts filled with great Briticisms and fun British names (his best friend is a boy named Warell Blub ---best name EVER), sad parts tinged with the sweet recollections of his mother as a young boy (his mother dies of lung problems when he is 10), and also some kiiiiiiiind of creepy parts. If I didn’t know the book was named “Toast”, I would have sworn it was named “Penis”. There is so much wang in this book; I seriously had to take a few breathers. From creepy Uncle Rege, who made him play “find the sixpence” in his pants pocket, to Josh the gardener who never wore underwear and loved to dry off naked in front of an 8 year old, to the creepy masturbator in the woods who ran after Nigel one day as he was taking his daily stroll; there is seriously a lot of creepy man penis talk. I mean I get it, the 1960s, free love, et all -- but creepy British male penis? Yikes! Overall a charming little read. Nigel had a tough childhood, but his love and interest in food really brought him to life and carried him on a path to greatness.

Need to buy this book on half.com!!!!

In the spirit of all things Nigel Slater, I decided to try a recipe from his delicious looking Kitchen Diaries: A Year Cooking With Nigel Slater. This book is gor-or-geous. Really easy to follow recipes, fun narratives and stunning photography that I found myself one hand reading on the train as I commuted home one day. Let me tell you - it was a real feat to drool and hold a 3 pound book in your hand while riding on the MBTA, but I accomplished it rather well. The book is arranged by month, so even though I’m saddened to look away from the summer month sections featuring luscious summer produce, I focused my attention on September and October. So today’s recipe is……..Homemade Macaroni and Cheese with Dijion and Fontina.

I’ve been meaning to do a home-made macaroni and cheese post for quite some time now. Not only is it one of my proudest make from scratch accomplishments, it certainly fits into a food nostalgia post or two.

I have two big memories of macaroni and cheese from my childhood. One involves a version that my mother made in this big stone brown casserole dish with a fancy blue swirl pattern on the bottom. I think she used Campbell’s Cream of Mushroom Soup in it, as I always found myself picking out the cubes of little black soggy mushrooms. It also had ham in it, which I loved, and a crumbly crust of breadcrumbs, probably from a paper canister. My second memory involves the constant battle between Kraft Macaroni and Cheese and Velveeta Shells and Cheese. My older sister loved Velveeta; the weird goop cheese that wasn't quite a liquid or a solid, and that came in a silver pouch. It tasted so metallic to me. Ick. Then there was Kraft with its neon cheese dust. Eventually Kraft came out with the Deluxe version, which meant wider noodles and a creamier sauce (which can be blamed on the extra milk and butter that was called for!) I was hooked. I never was into Annie’s –with the shells and white cheddar. It was too tangy and wholesome for this little soul.

Ahhh, the sweet smell of Kraft neon orange cheese powder

The gluten free alternatives for boxed mac and cheese are pretty eh. Amy’s Frozen Foods makes a fair rice pasta version, and then there is a version by Annie’s, which I improve upon by using Greek yogurt instead of milk. However, nothing beats homemade macaroni and cheese and the key to this recipe lies in both the roux and the type of cheese that you use.

A roux is the French way to thicken a sauce. A roux is also the reason why I can’t eat a ton of French food doused in fancy French sauces. However, since I’ve learned how to GF my roux, my wanna be French life has improved. Basically a roux is a paste made from butter and flour. When hot milk is added to this you get a béchamel or simple white sauce. If you add cheese to this, you get heaven on a spoon. There is also cheese choice to consider. Many people go with the standard cheddar or mozzarella, but I find that American cheese (despite it’s processed roots) gives a really great cheesy, salty flavor, and it also melts really well. Today we’re using Fontina, a superior melting cheese that could be referred to as Land-o-Lakes hot Italian cousin. Land-o-Lakes hot Swiss cousin is Gruyere, but we’ll save that cheese for another day!

I just love giving human characteristics to edible objects! Honestly, what could be better?

Here’s what you’ll need:

Pasta, about ½ to ¾ lb
Butter, 3 T
Flour, 2 T
Onion, ¼ cup diced
Bay leaves, 2
Milk, 2 cups
Fontina, 5 oz diced
Dijion mustard, 1 T
Breadcrumbs, ½ cup
Parmesan, ½ cup
Salt and pepper, to your liking

*fun accoutrements like broccoli, roasted mushrooms or peppers, etc.

Start your pasta water. Use a large pot, and salt the water and place the heat on medium low before you begin prepping. This way, as you prep, the water can slowly get up to temp, then in the last few minutes crank it to high and let it come to a boil.

Place 2 cups of milk, chopped onion, and bayleaf into sauce pan on low heat to warm.

Make your roux. Here’s a step by step guide with pictures! Aren't you lucky??

Start with 2 T of butter in sauce-pan and turn heat to medium.

Butter is king

When butter is fully melted, add 2T of your choice of flour and start to whisk together. I tend to use brown rice flour. It has a nice consistency that I think is comparable to wheat flour. For this particular recipe, I randomly used GF pancake mix? Still worked though! At this point, you don’t want the flour to burn, but you want to make a nice light brown paste. When you smell a nutty flavor, then your roux is ready.

Whatever you do, don't burn the flour!

Add your warm milk gradually and whisk to combine. Keep whisking and watch your heat. You do not want to scald your milk or have it boil over. I've done this many a times. Let’s just say this is not the step in the process where you make a trip to the restroom or when you decide you miss your cat and you need to give her a hug. I've had to learn the hard way....

Whisk, like your life depends on it

As you whisk, you’ll start to notice the sauce getting thicker and thicker. When the sauce gets to the thickness where it will coat the back of a spoon, add the fontina.

Whisk, until all cheese is melted. Add Dijion mustard and then salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

White sauce!

When pasta water comes to boil, add pasta and cook until al dente. While pasta cooks, toss 1 T butter in a fry pan with breadcrumbs and Parmesan and then set aside.

When pasta is done cooking, drain and add your white sauce. Throw into baking pan - casserole or even rectangular or square will work - and then add breadcrumbs on top. Bake in 400 degree oven for 30 minutes until sauce is bubbling up. Top with roasted veggies, meats, or whatever floats your boat.

I was impressed with this recipe. It was sort of like a 5th Avenue version of the mac and cheese that I make almost weekly now. The Dijion added a great depth of flavor, and the addition of bay leaf and onion into the milk really rounded everything out. The fontina delivered; it added a great creaminess that American cheese just can’t muster.

Oven roasted garlic broccoli complimented the rich cheesy texture of the Fontina stupendously!

Once you learn this recipe, you will never have to rely on boxed mac and cheese again. It's really so easy and all you need on hand is pasta, milk, flour and cheese. A great spur of the moment comfort food that you can be proud to say you made from scratch!