Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Thinking Outside the Prepackaged Box: Hasta Luego Old El Paso!


It’s been a goal of mine for a long time to completely obliterate pre-packaged and processed food from my diet. On those days when I find myself in tears because all I want is a piece of frickin’ cake, I have to think of the silver lining of the celiac’s storm cloud. In a sense, my food allergy means I can’t willingly gorge on junky processed foods because in most cases these foods are rife with gluten. Let’s just say I have a leg up in this whole conundrum – but it doesn’t necessarily mean I get away with a clean break. And you know who is to blame? Mexicans!

I love Mexican food. I almost love Mexican food more than my sweet cat. And just look at her?? How can you not love this little sleeping baby tiger?


Mexican food is extremely gluten friendly – probably the most gluten free friendly food in the world. Other than the flour tortilla, most Mexican food I’ve eaten is based around the two loves of my life; rice and corn. Plus, it’s so simple! The flavors are super fresh and just so darn tasty. Tomatoes, avocados, cheese? Yummy! To sum it up, I get a burrito bowl at Boloco at least once a week and am totally content on eating nachos for dinner for the rest of my life. Mexican food es la bomba!

La La La La La La Bamba!

Since Mexican food is rather simple, making it from scratch should not be that hard. However, I think most of us out there rely heavily on brands like Old El Paso and Ortega when they want to have Taco Night at home. But is this really necessary? Can a delicious Taco Tuesday be had without an envelope of processed taco seasoning?? I say si!

From a gluten free stand-point, you certainly can get a taco making kit that is gluten free. Actually for this challenge I bought hard taco shells, which are made from corn. They give me a certain nostalgia for Taco Day at good old Eastham Elementary School! A quick perusal of the Mexican section at Shaw’s turned up several packets of taco seasoning mix that were in fact gluten free. However stay away from the Taco Bell brand as that does contain wheat flour. Actually stay away from Taco Bell in general. That place is muy gross.

Yet, the point of all this was to make my own tacos, from scratch! Even with this lofty goal, I didn’t see the harm in sneaking a peak at what the heavy hitters used in their mixes. Here’s the back of a packet of Old El Paso Taco Seasoning Mix.

A few interesting things here:

1. The first ingredient is a food additive! Today’s fun fact: Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide aka a complex sugar. It usually appears in the form of a white powder (the anthrax of cuisine!) and is easily digestible.

2. Since this is a powder – the ingredients are all in powder format. Garlic powder, onion powder, cornstarch, etc. Yum….powder?

3. I once read somewhere that if you can’t pronounce the ingredients on a food label, you should not buy that food. Case in point: Ethoxyquin. On the bright side, that would be an excellent word to use in Scrabble!

4. It looks like they reduced the sodium. It used to be 370 mg. Now it's 270 mg. Hot dog! Still – this is per serving and I think there were 6 servings in this whole packet. So that’s about 1600 mg of sodium for the whole batch. I am a huge lover of salt – and am constantly dousing my food in it. But using table salt is usually not the culprit when you are talking about your sodium levels, it's food like this!

5. It sort of freaks me out when ingredients on a label get too general. For instance – “Spice” is listed. To me, you can't really general spices like you can milk or butter. There are about 20,000 different spices out there. So tell me Old El Paso, WHICH ONE IS IT?!!

6. My manicure is sweeeeeeeeet.

Now, don’t get me wrong. I’ve used this brand many of times, and despite my qualms with it, it’s mighty tasty. It’s good for what it is, but it makes me wonder why I can’t make own version without all the weird chemicals? Let the challenge begin!

Here’s what I assembled from my pantry to make my from scratch taco mix.

1. 1/4 cup onion, diced

2. 3 cloves of garlic chopped

3. 2 T chili powder

4. 2 T cumin

5. a few dashes of Worcestershire

6. cornstarch

7. a few dashes of Tabasco

The reason for using most of these ingredients is pretty obvious. I took everything that Old El Paso dried, and used the non-dried version. Chili powder is a staple in Mexican cuisine, as is cumin. I chose Tabasco for the heat. Cornstarch, in case I needed a thickening agent. Why the Worcestershire you ask? While at Shaw’s I saw Rick Bayless, a well known chef who cooks amazing Mexican cuisine, has his own brand of taco seasoning mixes out. Interestingly enough, his were not in powder form but were delivered sauce-like in these little pouches. I took a quick look at his ingredients and saw Worcestershire. Interesting, I thought. Worcestershire is a great addition to any meat based meal – it adds a great level of umami and overall deliciousness without really adding any specific tastes that would throw your flavors off.

I started with a nice hot pan and threw in a little bit of olive oil. Next, went the onion and garlic and after a few minutes, I added the ground beef. Once all the meat was nice and browned, I added the chili powder, cumin, Worcestershire, and the Tabasco. (I would say use your judgement when you are adding these spices. Depending on what level of heat you can tolerate, I would use more than the measurements I gave above. Truthfully, I probably did. Cooking is not an exact science.) After a few good stirs and a few moments of simmering, I started to taste. Something was definitely missing. I decided not to use the cornstarch since I didn’t think there was enough liquid to need thickening up. I feared that if I did use the cornstarch we would have had taco paste. But I did come to the conclusion that I needed things to be saucier. What did I have that could do the trick without disturbing the Mexican flavors?

Well much to my chagrin, my secret ingredient ended up being as American as it gets. Ketchup! I also threw in some salsa, so basically more tomatoes. It did the trick though! Here is my final product as it simmered on the stove.

And here it is in taco format! Now I know this looks like a taco shell filled with guacamole (what can I say? I love my guac!) but trust me, there is taco meat in there. For the most part, my think outside the pre-packaged box challenge was a success! Maybe next time, I would add a can of diced tomatoes and simmer everything down, to really achieve that saucy consistency. Other than than that, I think I have Old El Paso beat. Hit the Rio Grande Senor!



Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Easter Sunday Eatin’: Jesus Rose From the Dead and My Blender Bit the Dust



First up, this official announcements from The Kitchen Times:

April 8, 2012 - Cuisinart “Curtis” Blender and Food Processor, beloved appliance of Emily K. Dumas, took his last breath on Sunday, April 8 during a whipping up of a traditional Bearnaise sauce. Cuisinart Curtis was born in 2006 in some factory in China and was given as a gift by Ronald R. Dumas to his daughters as they were starting on their new life in Boston. In the 6 short years he roamed this earth, Cuisinart Curtis was responsible for blending multiple soups and sauces. Some of his most memorable contributions to the gastronomic community include a Roasted Tomato Soup, Homemade Mayonnaise, and a Pumpkin Curry Bisque. Cuisinart Curtis is survived by Katrina the Kitchenaide Mixer, Sally Sunbeam Microwave, and Etienne the French Press. In lieu of flowers, please send monetary donations to the EMILY NEEDS A NEW BLENDER FUND.

Hello gang! As you can see from the obituary above, I am no longer the proud owner of a blender/food processor! How fitting that on the day we honor the memory of Jesus Christ rising from the dead, my sweet little blender was to join him in heaven. Blenders go to heaven, right? Doesn’t that prayer go: In the name of the father, and the son, and the holy blender?? Looking back on old posts, I realized I used good old Curtis a hell of a lot! He certainly made my life easier and taught me so much about the importance of a good puree. What will I do with out him??

In memory of Curtis, I dedicate this blog post to him – and now I’ll tell you all about his final minutes but most importantly how to concoct a tantalizing Bearnaise sauce!

Easter Sunday circa 1989 - when little girls in white blazers and puffy perms ruled the world

So where to begin? Easter Sunday! This past Easter Sunday, my sister and I were on our own. Back in the day, as a proud Roman Catholic family, we would get all dolled up in our Sunday best and go to church on Easter morning. I remember one year where I was so proud of my big straw hat and white Mary Janes. Yikes to say the least! Dad would buy us Whitman Samplers and Mom would stick some lip gloss and other girly stuff from Avon into Easter baskets. We’d have a massive egg hunt in the backyard and eat a big ham. Now that we are older, and slightly more atheist, we no longer attend church or really make a big deal out of it in general. Maybe that’s why Jesus took away my blender : (

Check out these eggs!

This year, in true, “I can’t let go of our childhood form”, Andre and I still exchanged Easter baskets and dyed some eggs. We also agreed that a fancy dinner was in order (rising from the dead is a BIG DEAL!) and decided on steak frites. Now steak frites might possibly be one of my favorite meals on the planet. I have fond memories of eating it practically every other day when I was in Paris a few years ago. I mean is there anything better than steak and potatoes? NO! There ISN’T! By far one of my favorite things about steak frites is the sauce. If you go to a bistro here or in France, chances are steak frites will be served with Béarnaise. Bearnaise is a relatively simple sauce, as far as French sauces go. And to prove that Jesus really does love me, it’s gluten free! A sibling of the more decadent Hollandaise, Béarnaise consists of mainly butter, tarragon, shallots, and eggs. Usually there is some variation of vinegar, lemon juice, white wine or all three thrown in there as well. I don’t think you’ve experienced heaven on a plate until you’ve dipped fatty meat into a fatty sauce. Bring on the coronary!

In typical Emily fashion, I had barely any of the ingredients on hand. It was Sunday, and I wasn’t too keen on leaving the house, so I decided a little improvisation was in store! I think the element of fresh tarragon is what really makes a Béarnaise a Béarnaise, but when it comes down to it, the last thing I ever have on hand is fresh herbs. So tarragon was out! I thought I had a lemon and turns out I didn’t so that was a no-go. I had one desiccated onion that could use in place of shallots – so that would have to do. I did however have butter, lots of vinegars, white wine, and some eggs. Make it work Emily, Make it work!

Traditionally, Béarnaise would be made on the stove-top by using a double boiler and whisking your brains out. I wasn’t so much up for that, so enlisted the help of my trusty blender for the big mixing part. I started by sautéing some chopped onions (my sub for shallots) and some red wine vinegar in a sauce pan. I cranked the heat to medium and let the whole thing reduce till I mostly had vinegar soaked onions. I added a dash or two of white wine to lessen that vinegar taste that tends to really choke people up. Once the sauce was reduced, I let it cool for about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, I melted 2 sticks of butter over very low heat in a small saucepan. Next up, I took 3 egg yolks and the onions and popped them into my blender, and blended for about 30 seconds. Here’s where things got a little dicey……

The next step in this process should have been to put the blender on high, and slowly drizzle in the melted butter. I started my drizzle and Curtis the Cuisinart started making a noise a kin to a wounded yak. Smoke started to pour out of the bottom and I smelled burnt rubber; like “oh no, your tires are on fire” burnt rubber. Eeeegads! Off went the blender, and bye bye went Curtis!

a photo from the morgue

Not to be derailed by the death of an appliance (the show must go on!), I quickly poured the contents of the blender into a bowl and started to drizzle in the butter by hand, while at the same time whisking to my little heart’s content. After a few moments of heavy whisking – voila Béarnaise sauce was achieved! With the exclusion of tarragon and inclusion of onion, the sauce ended up coming out more like Béarnaise's cousin from the wrong side of the tracks, but it did its job. Our steak frites turned out amazing and I happily dipped my fatty steak in a butter sauce as I watched Bubba Watson try on his cool green jacket. What an Easter! Thank you Jesus!

Plan B - whisk it up!

A fun fact about Béarnaise: The sauce has been attributed to Chef Collinet who invented puffed potatoes (what are those and can I try them immediately!!???) and served for the first time near Paris in 1836 at the opening of Pavillion Henri IV. I guess Henri IV was some sort of a gourmand and just happened to be born in the former Province of Bearn (in Southwestern France) hence the name Béarnaise.

Here’s a link to their version of the historical sauce; too bad it’s in French. The pictures are fun though - visual learning here we come! The hotel however is beautiful. I need to get married here ASAP to my imaginary French boyfriend Armand!

Pretty French hotel - tres jolie

When I made my Béarnaise, I sort of strung together tips from a lot of different recipes I found online. However, I used parts of this Ina Garden recipe specifically because it used a blender. And who doesn’t love Ina? I want her life.

Classy Béarnaise

1/4 cup Champagne or white wine vinegar

1/4 cup good white wine

2 tablespoons minced shallots

3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves, divided

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 extra-large egg yolks

1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted

6 (1-inch thick) rib eye steaks

Olive Oil

Coarsely ground black pepper

For the sauce, put the Champagne vinegar, white wine, shallots, 1 tablespoon tarragon leaves, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is reduced to a few tablespoons. Cool slightly.

Place the cooled mixture with the egg yolks and 1 teaspoon salt in the jar of a blender and blend for 30 seconds. With blender on, slowly pour the hot butter through the opening in the lid. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of tarragon leaves and blend only for a second. If the sauce is too thick, add a tablespoon of white wine to thin. Keep at room temperature until serving.